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SmartStock System (aka) Accurizer Factory Barrel Tuning By Richard Kreischer
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| The Accurizer consists of a rectangular aluminum channel 3.5 inches long and open at the top. Running length wise through the unit is a 6-32 screw with click adjustments made with a screwdriver. Each click is 1/2 turn of the screw and causes .0125" movement of the Attenuating Block. The attenuating block is a cube shaped block of Delrin that moves back and forth on the bottom of the barrel. The Accurizer is installed in its' epoxy bed in the fore-end parallel to the barrel and the Attenuating Block is adjusted back and forth with the screwdriver click adjustments. Positioning of the Attenuating Block at a "Sweet Spot" reduces group size. Installation consists of bedding the Installation Template in the for-end with a good mold release. The Installation Template is used to correctly locate the holes for the adjustment screw and the Sling Swivel Screw. The Sling Swivel Screw fits into a threaded hole in the bottom of the Accurizer and holds it in the fore-end. Remove the Installation Template. Install the Accurizer in the space where the Installation Template was and screw in the Sling Swivel Screw. It weighs 598.8 grains, with epoxy bedding the total weight should not exceed 1.5 ounces. After putting the gun back together the sandpaper is placed between the barrel and the Attenuating block, rough face toward the block. By sliding the sandpaper back and forth and using a bathroom scale, the amount of pressure on the barrel can be measured and adjusted. Instructions suggest setting the pressure on the barrel ; 9 pounds then testing. It further states that many rifles will work best at 7 or 8 pounds pressure. I started at 10 pounds |
Rifle, Template and Accurizer intending to reduce the pressure as needed, but my results were good enough at 1 pounds that I did not try less pressure. Jim Nasset inventor of the Accurizer says that heavy barrels work with mol pressure than light barrel Apparently light barrel will shoot vertical string with heavy pressure. I ran into a few small problems. The Installation Template is bedded in to the fore-end. It will requiring jockeying back and forth to remove it. There is nothing to grab onto to do the jockeying. I drilled two holes in it and installed two sheet metal screws to facilitate removal. The Sling Swivel Screw was to short to go through my fore-end. No problem... I replaced it with a longer one. One word of caution, The sling swivel screw can penetrate far enough into the unit to prevent travel of the Attenuating block. Check the clearance closely. Also the unit is tight when new. Using the screw driver run the unit end-to-end two or three times before |
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